Friday, March 24, 2006

Birthday, Lapland, Helsinki, Zorn

So tomorrow is my birthday. As JessRo (a friend from Michigan) pointed out, this is the only time in my life that I'll be 24 on the 24th and 25 on the 25th. I guess that makes me old enough to snore loudly on trains with out feeling embarassed.

I'm throwing a little shindig to celebrate - just a few friends and some chocolate. You know the drill. Show up at 8 and watch the calorie count grow..."Dude, I am SOOOO buzzed right now, pass the 70% cocoa!"

Tomorrow I'm going to Lapland for a few days with 49 other international students. Of these 44 are women. It's going to be interesting. Plans: see the northern lights, go inside a building made entirely of ice, spend alot of time in the sauna, and try not to say anything even remotely misogynist.

I return on Tuesday night. Wednesday will be lots of math, and then Thursday is off to Helsinki to do more math. Steffen Rhode (from Seattle) will be there until Friday, and I'll get to talk with Kari Astala and his student Saara. Should be great! I'll be in Helsinki for about a week. The U of Helsinki folks have been SUPER nice to me in getting this set up. KIITOS!

Ok, I have to go or i'll be late for my party. Maybe I'll write more afterwards and include some photos!

Miss you all!

Thursday, March 16, 2006

Ski-Jumping (not me, don't worry), and more hiking, math, and finnish.

The weather is really starting to change here. There are nearly twelve hours of daylight, and today the temperature was 32F for the first time in weeks. The most startling difference is that it is both very sunny and very warm - usually we only had one or the other. I haven't tried ice-skating on the ice track yet, but I better soon or the ice will disappear!

The past week and a half have been really interesting. I went to Kuopio, a town about 120km north of here, to see a World Cup Ski-Jumping event. It was really, really cold. I was traveling with Gabi, and Austrian who speaks Hungarian, Anja, a half-German half-Finnish woman, and Emmi, a Polish polymath with a disdain for table manners. We arrived in Kuopio around 4pm and were outside in -15F weather for about 4 hours. There were cheerleaders. The ski-jumping was really neat, but I didn't really understand enough about the technical aspects of the sport to make it super fascinating. Mostly, I thought to myself, "Wow. That guy just flew 400ft through the air on skis. I'm really cold. Wow. That guy just did the same thing. I'm really cold." Repeat 80 times. The biggest problem was the feet, because we were standing on snow. And the snow was actually colder than the air. And we standing on it. Around 7pm, we met a friend of mine, Kati, who is a student at U of Jyväskylä who happened to be visiting her family, who lives in Kuopio. She was nice enough to take us on a little tour of Kuopio after the Ski-Jumping, including a visit to an observation tower. After that, we went to a bar where there was a live band - consisting entirely of Finnish ski-jumpers. The music was terrible. But there's something you have to understand here - in Finland, ski-jumpers are superstars. People love them hardcore. And they party hard. These guys were seriously anorexic, and pounding the champagne straight from the giant trophy. It was hard to call them althletes after this - seeing them up close made me realized that they fail the first test for being a "real althlete": if I can beat you up, then you are not an athlete. After that, we crashed at Kati's place, since the only train back to Jyväskylä didn't get back until 4am. Thanks Kati! It was really wonderful to be in a real home after months in my flat with still-blank walls. We ate oatmeal with wild berries for breakfast - normal people, including non-hippies, pick tons of berries in the wild during the summer and freeze them for the rest of the year. Note to self: do this if possible.

Finnish Fact: Everyman's Rights. Why can't America be this awesome?

HIking this weekend was great because of super wonderful weather. We went to Tourovouri, about 5km north of downtown. In attendence were the usual suspects: Maria, Karoline, and Tatiana. It was sweet. We were almost killed by cross-country skiers, but that's better than almost being killed by SUV's, like in Ann Arbor.


I've been working VERY hard on math lately and not getting, well, really anywhere. The problem we're working on is quite hard, I think, and technically a nightmare. I met with Pekka today, and he suggested that I give up and move on to the next portion of the problem and hope that something happens subconsciously in the meantime. I hope this doesn't reflect poorly on me. I just can't solve it. I tried. A lot. I'm just not smart enough. Sigh. Math is hard. Somebody call Barbie - I need someone to commiserate with!

Maybe this will help: I've finally found a decent coffee shop.

I've also become more comfortable speaking Finnish. I now know about as much finnish as I did french after two years of study. I guess that's the benefit of immersion. My goal is to be able to have a real conversation in finnish before I leave at the end of may.

Other big news: I'm going to alaska to visit with family after I return from Poland. Seriously, my internal clock is going to be set to "cuckoo".

Check out my photostream for lots more photos.

Sunday, March 05, 2006

I'm not dead yet!

Hi Everyone! Sorry it's been so long since my last post. For some reason, I just haven't been in the blogging mood. But now I am!

So I've been doing a ton of fun stuff lately - and I'll tell you all about it later. First, I'd like to write a little about what I've learned about Finnish culture lately.

The Finns have two words for the english word "friend": kaveri and ystävä. There is an important difference between them. Most Finnish people have only one or two ystävää; an ystävä is a very close friend, one who will probably be your friend for life. There is really strong trust between ystävä - you don't ever have to worry that your ystävä will betray you. Kaveri is more like what we Americans think of as "normal" friends. Most often, a university student will have kaveri that are studying the same thing, or involved in the same hobby. It seems quite rare for people to have "all sorts" of kaveri - and indeed, some Finns tell me that this can be both really nice and really miserable. What's interesting to me is how this friendship structure is related to the "shyness" of Finns. Many people say that Finns are hard to get to know - what I think is just that Finns have a higher threshold for a close friendship. There are probably many reasons for this: Finland is small country so people can stay in touch even if they don't live in the same city, people don't move quite as often, high school lasts until students are about 19 rather than 17, etc.

I have met a TON of people since I've been in Finland, and one of the things that's been difficult is that although you meet lots of cool people, you have only known them for a few days or weeks, and so there is not such a strong feeling of trust and closeness. It has really made me value the friendships that I had back in the US that I perhaps take for granted.

But what has really impressed me in the past couple weeks is that I have met a bunch (>5) Finnish people who have treated me so kindly and honestly that I am now forced to think that all this business of Finns "having a higher threshold for friendship" is just a myth. I am constantly amazed by the hospitality and warmth that I've received from people I barely even know.

On a related (somehow?) note, I was reading an article in the NYTimes about how there are more millionaires in the US per capita than ever before, and how the gap between rich and poor is growing. Many of the Finns that have shown me great hospitality are not particularly wealthy. Despite this, I've felt as if I live a life of real luxury here. There are many things here which are REALLY pleasurable and REALLY affordable. The funny thing is that these same things are available in the US! The people here seem to appreciate the simple joys of life much more than I am used to. Example: Yesterday, I spent the morning going on a run (about 10K - my first in a LONG time, don't worry, my knee is ok) with a friend, then we had a simple lunch of fish, potatoes, salad, and homemade pulla (cinnamon buns). After that, I went to the sauna, did some math, and hit the hay early. It was one of the best days of my life. Who needs a yacht? Why should we feel the need to get rich? Why aren't we satisfied with a moderate lifestyle?

Sometimes Finland is very Zen. I bet Finnish poetry is really good.

Ok, so here's the rundown on the major fun events of the past few weeks.

Choral concert: My friend Maria sings in one of the 30+ choirs here in Jyväskylä. Along with a bunch of friends, I went to the concert celebrating the release of their new album. It was FANTASTIC. Now I don't know much about choral music, but they were really professional, and their music gave me goosebumps. They sang mostly in Finnish, and performed a number of songs composed especially for their group. Afterwards Maria was kind enough to invite me to the after-party, which consisted of lots of food, singing (including a finnish version of "she'll be coming 'round the mountain"), guitar playing, and sauna. Awesome. Also, my finnish teacher was in the choir, so we got to hang a little outside of class. Luckily there is not such a taboo against this as in the US.

I also attended a poetry reading at Vakiopaine, the "bohemian" bar in town - reminded me a bit of Ambrosia. It was pretty cool - almost all in Finnish. I could really only understand a few words here and there, not enough to understand the meaning. But it was nice anyway. After the readings, we engaged in an orange carving contest. Yes, I am still obsessed with oranges. Also that night I met some cool people from Mexico and Spain, but promptly offended them. I decided it would be a good time for me to spend about twenty minutes making fun of "new age" spirituality, including jokes about "vortices" and David Lynch. Not surprisingly, my new friends were going to spend the entire next day at a meditation workshop. I did not anticipate this.

The most bizarre thing I've seen since being in Finland was a concert last week. The band was called "Eläkeläiset", or "The Retirees". They play music in a style called "Humppa", which defies description. My best shot is "polka-punk". It was drums, guitar, accordian, and organ. They also had a table just for their alcohol (which was substantial). Here's the kicker - they played all covers of modern pop music. How did they come up with this? "Hey guys, let's have a band where we play polka-punk covers of Madonna's 'Like a Virgin', Guns'n'roses 'Sweet Child of Mine', and Weezer's 'Buddy Holly'!...What do you mean you don't think it's going to work?" Anyway, I couldn't decide which was funnier, the band or the fans. People REALLY loved it. I had a great time. Also I had a beer poured all over me by a guy dressed up as the "General of the Humppa Army". That's PUNK ROCK!

As a bonus for reading all of this, here is a photo of a calendar that was sent to all of the residents of my housing complex. The theme of the calendar is environmental living. It is really very funny. There are more photos of the calendar in my photo stream. Warning: the calendar contains nudity. But it is funny nudity. Not yucky nudity.